Loose Leash Walking (LLW)

Generally the most common cause of leash pulling is a lack of engagement. 

The best course of action is to build engagement, the duration of engagement and then implement some simple heel work techniques with a release command. 

Giving your dog a specific trained cue works best, rather than a "no" or a yank on their leash. 

Crate/Place Training

Crate or place training has a place in every dog's life. It can be used to teach them self-confidence, prepare them for vet visits or even just for giving them a place to relax and wind down. 

I do not believe in the "let them cry it out" method and utilise positive reinforcement only.

Resource Guarding

Resource guarding is a serious issue which can lead to bites on people in the home and other pets in the home. 

Whether your dog resource guards people, areas of the house, toys or food, I can work with you and help you and your dog to move through it. 

Resource guarding generally stems from under confidence in the dog. 

A common misconception is to put your hands in your dog's food bowl and play with their food whilst they are eating to cure or prevent resource guarding. This is actually the quickest way to create a dog who resource guards!

Recall

A huge issue which faces many dogs and their owners today (and in many situations leads to reactivity) is recall. 

Poor recall can put your dog, other dogs, yourself, other people and livestock in dangerous situations.

If your dog has poor recall, do not let them off the leash. Instead, opt for a long line so that you can have control over your dog and they still have their freedom. 

Off-leash time is very important for dogs' mental stimulation so good recall is an invaluable skill to teach your dog. 

It might also save your dog's life. 

I can help with recall problems and teaching recall from scratch for all dog breeds of all ages. 

Muzzle Training

Muzzle training can be used for a variety of dogs; and ALL muzzled dogs are good dogs! You may need to muzzle your dog for a variety of reasons, such as, to keep prey drive under control, for vet visits, for legislative purposes, to keep your dog and other people safe if they are reactive. Muzzles, if introduced correctly, need not be a stressful change for you or your dog. We introduce the muzzle slowly and by utilizing positive reinforcement.

Puppy and Adult Dog Socialisation

It is SO vitally important to start your dog's life off on the right foot (or paw!). 

Common advice for socialisation is to let your dog meet every dog and person they see. This is the quickest way to create a reactive dog. Whether they become reactive through fear or over-excitement, both can be tricky problems to deal with later on down the line. 

I will help you to socialise your dog properly from puppyhood and teach you the basic skills needed to create a well-rounded, confident and happy dog. 

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Re-socialising adult and adolescent dogs from scratch is also something I offer. However, if they are reactive, I would advise booking in for an initial reactivity consultation first so that we can address the reactivity before attempting re-socialisation. 

Heel Work

Heel work is another staple of having a well-trained dog. Heel-work does not have to be fancy and it doesn't even have to be focused! But, it can be used in a variety of situations; to keep your dog close and safe in busy areas or around traffic, to keep your dog under control and many more. 

"Fancy" heel-work can be taught for fun or for the show ring but also for every-day life.

How does it work?

All sessions are 1-2-1 and I will come to you and train either in your home or in a public location.

Training can be done in a venue but these are on special request only and do accrue a slightly higher charge due to venue hire.