I use threshold training combined with positive reinforcement. I find this works best even for those highly strung working breeds, especially when reactivity stems from fear. 

With reactivity that stems from prey drive or working instinct, there are other methods that can be used to curb reactivity, but they still lie mainly within positive reinforcement and meeting your dog's natural stimulation requirements for their breed.

Reactivity training relies heavily on you and your dog's relationship. 

It is up to YOU to put the work in with your dog. 

I am there to give training advice, point you in the direction and fine-tune your timing, but it is up to you how much work you put in. 

There would be little point in me training your dog in sessions and then handing them back to you without any guidance; it would not solve anything because it's you that handles your dog on a daily basis, not me. 

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In the future, I would like to offer board and train so I can work with dogs for a period of time, but, even with board and train, you would still be required to come and work with your dog before they go back home. Again, there would be little point in me just handing you back your dog without you also learning and implementing the training. Before you know it, you'd be back to square 1. 

Consistency is key.

This is the most common statement I get from new clients. 

The reason it doesn't work is because a dog class/doggy day care/social walk is a highly stressful environment for them if they are reactive. 

It's like having a fear of spiders and then someone dumps you in a room full of them and tells you to figure it out! 

It doesn't work. 

Dog classes can, once improvements have been made, be an invaluable training tool but not at first.

All reactivity training is done 1-2-1 and I will come to you and train, preferably in a public place which your dog is used to.

 Firstly, you will need to book in for an initial consultation. This allows me to assess your dog's behavior to all their triggers and underpin the causes. 90% of the time it is fear and I have yet to meet a dog who is downright just aggressive! Though their behavior may look "scary" or "aggressive", it is usually a fear response and that is the only way they feel they can vocalize that they are feeling threatened. 

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After the initial consultation, I will draw up a full report of my findings and a training plan. I will recommend the amount of sessions going forward I think your dog needs. At each follow-on session, I will see how you're getting on and tweak your timing, threshold distances and give you training advice on building you and your dog's relationship and their confidence.

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After you have made sufficient improvement and I feel you don't need regular sessions, you will achieve sign off! You will get a lovely rosette and certificate but that doesn't mean all support is relieved and sign off will only be achieved when you and your dog have made sufficient progress and you are in a position to carry on working with your dog self-sufficiently. 

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Top-up sessions can be done after sign off whenever you feel necessary.

Any and all! Even banned breeds! With banned breeds, all I ask is that you adhere to legislation.

Old dogs definitely can learn new tricks and reactivity can be worked through at any stage of life.